Showing posts with label level. Show all posts
Showing posts with label level. Show all posts

Friday, September 26, 2014

Numeric Water Level Indicator

Most water-level indicators for water tanks are based upon the number of LEDs that glow to indicate the corresponding level of water in the container. Here we present a digital version of the water-level indicator. It uses a 7-segment display to show the water level in numeric form from0 to 9. The circuit works off 5V regulated power supply. It is built around priority encoder IC 74HC147 (IC1), BCD-to-7-segment decoder IC CD4511 (IC2), 7-segment display LTS543 (DIS1) and a few discrete components. Due to high input impedance, IC1 senses water in the container from its nine input terminals. The inputs are connected to +5V via 560-kilo-ohm resistors.

The ground terminal of the sensor must be kept at the bottom of the container (tank). IC 74HC147 has nine active-low inputs and converts the active input into active-low BCD output. The input L-9 has the highest priority. The outputs of IC1 (A, B, C and D) are fed to IC2 via transistors T1 through T4. This logic inverter is used to convert the active-low output of IC1 into active-high for IC2. The BCD code received by IC2 is shown on 7-segment display LTS543. Resistors R18 through R24 limit the current through the display.

image Numeric Water-Level Indicator circuit diagram
When the tank is empty, all the inputs of IC1 remain high. As a result, its output also remains high, making all the inputs of IC2 low. Display LTS543 at this stage shows 0, which means the tank is empty. Similarly, when the water level reaches L-1 position, the display shows 1, and when the water level reaches L-8 position, the display shows 8. Finally, when the tank is full, all the inputs of IC1 become low and its output goes low to make all the inputs of IC2 high. Display LTS543 now shows 9, which means the tank is full. Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and enclose in a box. Mount 7-segment LTS543 on the front panel of the box. For sensors L-1 though L-9 and ground, use corrosion-free conductive-metal (stainless-steel) strips.
Copyright: EFY Mag
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Friday, January 31, 2014

Water Tank Level Meter Sensor

The water-tank level meter de-scribed here is very simple and useful for monitoring the water level in an overhead tank (OHT). The water level at 30cm intervals is monitored and continuously indicated by LEDs ar-ranged in a meter-format. When all the LEDs are ‘off’, it indicates that the OHT is empty. When the water level reaches the top limit, the whole LED-meter begins to flash. The height at which the level-sensing electrodes are fitted is adjustable. Thus, the minimum and maximum level settings may be varied as desired. The range of the meter can also be enlarged to cater to any level. No special or critical components are used. CMOS ICs are used to limit the idle current to a minimum level.
 
Even when all the LEDs are ‘on’, i.e. water reaches the top level, the demand on the power supply is reasonably low. Further, the extremely high input resistance of the Schmitt inverter gates reduces the input current and thus minimises the erosion of electrodes. The princi-pal part of the device is its water-level sensor assembly. By using easily available material, it can be fabricated to meet one’s own specific requirements. The common ground reference electrode ‘X’ is an aluminium conduit of 15mm outer diameter and 3-metre length, to cater to a 3-metre deep overhead tank. Insulating spacer rings ‘Y’ (10mm length, 15mm dia.) are fabricated from electrical wiring conduits of 15mm inner diameter.
 
These are pushed tightly over the aluminum conduit at preferred places, say 30cm apart. If the pieces are too tight, they can be heated in boiling water for softening and then pushed over ‘X’. The sensor electrodes ‘Z’ are made out of copper or brass strips (6mm wide and 1mm thick) which are shaped into rings that can tightly slip over the ‘Y’ pieces. The ends of these strips are folded firmly and formed into solder tags S1 to S10 and SG. The wall-mounting brackets, made of aluminium die-cast, are screwed directly on ‘X’ at two suitable places.
 
Water-Tank Level Meter cir 
The sensor cable ‘WC’ wires are soldered to solder tags, and some epoxy cement is applied around the joints and tags to avoid corrosion by water. The common ground reference wire ‘SG’ is taken from tag ‘T’. The cable’s individual wires from S1 to S10 and SG are cut and matched in length for a neat layout. The other ends of the cable are connected to the PCB terminal points S1 to S10 and SG respectively. No separate ground is needed. The electronics portion is simple and straightforward. A long piece of vero board can hold all the parts including the power supply section.
 
For easy installation, the LEDs can be set at the track side of the board, in a single line, so that they may be pushed through the cutouts in the front panel of the enclosure from inside. The water level at 30cm intervals is monitored by corresponding sensors, causing the input  to the concerned inverters (normally pulled  ‘high’ via resistors R1 through R10) to go ‘low’, as soon as water reaches the respective sensors On initial switching  ‘on’ of the power supply, when the tank is empty, all the electrodes are open. As a result, all the inverter inputs are ‘high’ (via the pull-up resistors R1 to R10) and their outputs are all  ‘low’. Thus, all the LEDs are  ‘off ’. As soon as the water starts filling the tank, the rising water level grounds the first sensor.
 
The logic 1 output of first inverter gate N1 causes conduction of transistor T2 to extend ground to one side of resistors R14 through R23 via emitter collector path of transistor T2. The LED D1 is thus lit up. Similarly, other LEDs turn  ‘on’ successively as the water level rises. As soon as the water in OHT reaches the top level, the output of gate N10 goes to logic 1 and causes flashing-type LED D11 to start flashing. At the same time, transistor T1 conducts and cuts off alternately, in synchronism with LED D11’s flash rate, to ground the base of transistor T2 during conduction of transistor T1. As a result, transistor T2 also starts cutting ‘off’ during conduction of transistor T1, to make the LED meter (comprising LEDs D1 through D10) flash and thus warn that the water has reached the top level.
 
When the water level goes down, the reverse happens and each LED is turned ‘off’ successively. The novel feature of this circuit is that whenever the water level is below the first sensor, all the LEDs are ‘off’ and the quiescent current is very low. Thus, a power ‘on’/‘off’ switch is not so essential. Even when the LED-meter is fully on, the cur-rent drawn from the power supply is not more than 120 mA. A heat-sink may, how-ever, be used for transistor T2, if the tank is expected to remain full most of the time. A power supply unit providing unregulated 6V DC to 15V DC at 300mA current is adequate.
 
Caution. A point to be noted is that water  tends to stick to the narrow space at the sensor-spacer junction and can cause a false reading on the LED-meter. This can be avoided if the spacers are made wider than 10 mm.
Author : M.K. Chandra MouleeswAran - Copyright : EFY
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Sunday, January 12, 2014

Measure your stress level – Tension meter

If you, like so many other people in this day and age, arrive home from work stressed out and with the problems of the day still lingering,this simple little instrument will go a long way to relieving nervous tension.
Of the various types of feedback devices, probably the best approach for the amateur experimenter is the Galvanograph, better known as the Galvanic Skin Response Monitor. The instrument described here relies for its operation on changes in skin resistance in sympathy with changes in emotional state. An increase in tension level reduces skin resistance and, conversely, a decrease in tension is accompanied by an increase in skin resistance.
The correlation between emotional stress and skin resistance is still not fully understood. What is known, though, is that minute changes in the permeability of the skin produce corresponding voltage variations across two electrode pads attached to two fingers on the same hand.

Measure tension meter


Tension Monitor meter circuit

These signal fluctuations are amplified and fed to an oscillator to produce an audible tone. A decrease in pitch therefore signifies a decrease in tension, and vice-versa. A visual indicator in the form of a panel meter also aids the user in monitoring tension levels. The monitor is quite sensitive to fluctuations. During use, a sudden moment of stress, even a deep sigh, will increase the pitch and cause a shift of the meter needle. Circuit Details In the circuit diagram of Fig.1, IC1 is configured as an astable multivibrator to drive an 8-ohm miniature speaker LS1 via capacitor C3, resistor R6 and volume control potentiometer VR2. The latter allows users to set a desired level and avoid it becoming a distraction.
Whereas the trigger input of IC1 is normally connected to the positive rail via a resistor in a conventional 555 oscillator, here it is connected via resistor R4 to the emitter of transistor TR1. The base of TR1 is connected between one electrode pad and the voltage divider formed by potentiometer VR1 and resistor R1. It will be seen that with the pads fitted to the fingers, the tone level will be dependent on the setting of VR1 and skin resistance. Resistor R2 in the transistor base is necessary should the pads be accidentally touched together. A 1mA meter is fitted in the collector line, along with R3, as a visual indicator. Although not essential or intended to measure current levels, it does help to emphasize fluctuations in emotional level.
The design of the pads is not critical. For the prototype, stripboard was used. The tracks were wired together at one end and connected to a 30cm length of twin lighting flex. The pads were then glued to Velcro straps. When the unit is first switched on, a highpitched tone should be heard, rapidly diminishing and ceasing. Turn the Sensitivity control VR1 to the minimum setting. Attach the electrodes to the fleshy pads of the first two fingers on the less-dominant hand with the Velcro straps, firmly but not tight. Rest the hand comfortably and keep it reasonably still, allowing half a minute for the pads to “bond”. Normally, at the minimum setting, the oscillator will hardly tick over, unless the user is in a high state of anxiety. Keep in mind that any form of stimulant, and that includes tea, coffee, alcohol and cigarettes, will reduce one’s capacity to relax. Rotate the control until a medium pitched tone is obtained and apply your relaxation technique. The monitor does not teach any method of meditation or relaxation; it only monitors the effectiveness of the technique applied. The tone should slowly diminish, with fluctuations as unconscious thoughts flit across the mind.When the sound ceases altogether, repeat the above procedure by increasing VR1. Twenty minutes is considered by therapists to be an adequate relaxation session.
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Monday, November 25, 2013

Hot Water Level Indicator

A simple device to indicate various levels of hot water in a tank, save fuel bills and the economy of the planet with this circuit. SW1 is a normally open press button switch which allows you to view the level of hot water in a hot water tank. When pressed the voltage difference at the junction of the thermistor and preset is compared to the fixed voltage on the op-amps non-inverting input. Depending on the heat of the water in the tank, the thermistors resistance will toggle the op-amp output to swing to almost full voltage supply and light the appropriate LED.

Hot Water Level Indicator Schematic

Hot Water Level Indicator

Construction:
Masking tape was used to stick the bead thermistors to the tank. Wires were soldered and insulated at the thermistors ends. A plastic box was used to house the circuit. Battery life will probably be 4 to 5 years depending on how often you use the push switch, SW1.

Sensor Placement:
Thermistors NTC1-4 should be spread evenly over the height of the tank. I placed NTC1 roughly 4 inches from the top of my tank and the others were spaced evenly across the height of the hot water tank. As hot water rises the lowest sensor indicates the fullest height of hot water and should be about 8 to 10 inches from the bottom of the tank.

Calibration:

With a full tank of hot water adjust P1-4 so that all LEDs are lit. As hot water rises, the sensor at the bottom of the tank will be the maximum level of hot water. "Hot" can be translated as 50C to 80C the presets P1-4 allow adjustment of this range.

Parts:
I have used a quad version of the LM324 but any quad opamp can be used or even four single op-amps.
R2-R5 I used 330ohm resistors, but value is not critical. Lower values give brighter LED output.
NTC1-4 The thermistors maximum resistance must roughly equal the resistance of the fixed resistor and preset. As negative temparature coefficient (NTC) thermistors are used, then their resistance decreases for increases in temperature. I used a thermistor from the Maplin Catalogue. Cold resistance was around 300K, hot resistance 15k. Alternative thermistors may be used with different resistance ranges, but the presets P1 to P4 must also be changed as well.
R7-10 series resistance, only required if your thermistors resistance is several ohms at the hottest temperature.
P1 - P4 Chosen to match the resistance of the thermistor when cold.
R1 & R6. These resistors are equal and bias the op-amp inverting input to half the supply voltage. I used 100k.
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Sunday, November 17, 2013

LED Audio Level Meter Circuit

This circuit uses two quad op-amps to form an eight LED audio level meter. The op-amp used in this particular circuit is the LM324. It is a popular IC and should be available from many parts stores.

LED audio level meter
LED audio level meter schematic
The 1K resistors in the circuit are essential so that the LEDs turn on at different audio levels. There is no reason why you cant change these resistors, although anything above 5K may cause some of the LEDs to never switch on. This circuit is easily expandable with more op-amps, and is not limited to use with the LM324. Pretty much any op-amp will work as long as you look up the pinouts and make sure everything is properly connected.

The 33K resistor on the schematic is to keep the signal input to the circuit at a low level. It is unlikely you will find a 33K resistor, so the closest you can get should do. The value of this resistor may need to be changed, so it is best you breadboard this circuit before actually constructing it on PCB. The circuit in its current form will accept line level inputs from sources such as the aux out on a Hi-Fi, all though could be easily modified to accept speaker inputs.

The audio + is connected to the main positive rail, while the audio - is used for signal input. The 50k pot can be used to vary the sensitivity of the circuit.
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