Showing posts with label water. Show all posts
Showing posts with label water. Show all posts

Friday, September 26, 2014

Numeric Water Level Indicator

Most water-level indicators for water tanks are based upon the number of LEDs that glow to indicate the corresponding level of water in the container. Here we present a digital version of the water-level indicator. It uses a 7-segment display to show the water level in numeric form from0 to 9. The circuit works off 5V regulated power supply. It is built around priority encoder IC 74HC147 (IC1), BCD-to-7-segment decoder IC CD4511 (IC2), 7-segment display LTS543 (DIS1) and a few discrete components. Due to high input impedance, IC1 senses water in the container from its nine input terminals. The inputs are connected to +5V via 560-kilo-ohm resistors.

The ground terminal of the sensor must be kept at the bottom of the container (tank). IC 74HC147 has nine active-low inputs and converts the active input into active-low BCD output. The input L-9 has the highest priority. The outputs of IC1 (A, B, C and D) are fed to IC2 via transistors T1 through T4. This logic inverter is used to convert the active-low output of IC1 into active-high for IC2. The BCD code received by IC2 is shown on 7-segment display LTS543. Resistors R18 through R24 limit the current through the display.

image Numeric Water-Level Indicator circuit diagram
When the tank is empty, all the inputs of IC1 remain high. As a result, its output also remains high, making all the inputs of IC2 low. Display LTS543 at this stage shows 0, which means the tank is empty. Similarly, when the water level reaches L-1 position, the display shows 1, and when the water level reaches L-8 position, the display shows 8. Finally, when the tank is full, all the inputs of IC1 become low and its output goes low to make all the inputs of IC2 high. Display LTS543 now shows 9, which means the tank is full. Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and enclose in a box. Mount 7-segment LTS543 on the front panel of the box. For sensors L-1 though L-9 and ground, use corrosion-free conductive-metal (stainless-steel) strips.
Copyright: EFY Mag
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Friday, January 31, 2014

Water Tank Level Meter Sensor

The water-tank level meter de-scribed here is very simple and useful for monitoring the water level in an overhead tank (OHT). The water level at 30cm intervals is monitored and continuously indicated by LEDs ar-ranged in a meter-format. When all the LEDs are ‘off’, it indicates that the OHT is empty. When the water level reaches the top limit, the whole LED-meter begins to flash. The height at which the level-sensing electrodes are fitted is adjustable. Thus, the minimum and maximum level settings may be varied as desired. The range of the meter can also be enlarged to cater to any level. No special or critical components are used. CMOS ICs are used to limit the idle current to a minimum level.
 
Even when all the LEDs are ‘on’, i.e. water reaches the top level, the demand on the power supply is reasonably low. Further, the extremely high input resistance of the Schmitt inverter gates reduces the input current and thus minimises the erosion of electrodes. The princi-pal part of the device is its water-level sensor assembly. By using easily available material, it can be fabricated to meet one’s own specific requirements. The common ground reference electrode ‘X’ is an aluminium conduit of 15mm outer diameter and 3-metre length, to cater to a 3-metre deep overhead tank. Insulating spacer rings ‘Y’ (10mm length, 15mm dia.) are fabricated from electrical wiring conduits of 15mm inner diameter.
 
These are pushed tightly over the aluminum conduit at preferred places, say 30cm apart. If the pieces are too tight, they can be heated in boiling water for softening and then pushed over ‘X’. The sensor electrodes ‘Z’ are made out of copper or brass strips (6mm wide and 1mm thick) which are shaped into rings that can tightly slip over the ‘Y’ pieces. The ends of these strips are folded firmly and formed into solder tags S1 to S10 and SG. The wall-mounting brackets, made of aluminium die-cast, are screwed directly on ‘X’ at two suitable places.
 
Water-Tank Level Meter cir 
The sensor cable ‘WC’ wires are soldered to solder tags, and some epoxy cement is applied around the joints and tags to avoid corrosion by water. The common ground reference wire ‘SG’ is taken from tag ‘T’. The cable’s individual wires from S1 to S10 and SG are cut and matched in length for a neat layout. The other ends of the cable are connected to the PCB terminal points S1 to S10 and SG respectively. No separate ground is needed. The electronics portion is simple and straightforward. A long piece of vero board can hold all the parts including the power supply section.
 
For easy installation, the LEDs can be set at the track side of the board, in a single line, so that they may be pushed through the cutouts in the front panel of the enclosure from inside. The water level at 30cm intervals is monitored by corresponding sensors, causing the input  to the concerned inverters (normally pulled  ‘high’ via resistors R1 through R10) to go ‘low’, as soon as water reaches the respective sensors On initial switching  ‘on’ of the power supply, when the tank is empty, all the electrodes are open. As a result, all the inverter inputs are ‘high’ (via the pull-up resistors R1 to R10) and their outputs are all  ‘low’. Thus, all the LEDs are  ‘off ’. As soon as the water starts filling the tank, the rising water level grounds the first sensor.
 
The logic 1 output of first inverter gate N1 causes conduction of transistor T2 to extend ground to one side of resistors R14 through R23 via emitter collector path of transistor T2. The LED D1 is thus lit up. Similarly, other LEDs turn  ‘on’ successively as the water level rises. As soon as the water in OHT reaches the top level, the output of gate N10 goes to logic 1 and causes flashing-type LED D11 to start flashing. At the same time, transistor T1 conducts and cuts off alternately, in synchronism with LED D11’s flash rate, to ground the base of transistor T2 during conduction of transistor T1. As a result, transistor T2 also starts cutting ‘off’ during conduction of transistor T1, to make the LED meter (comprising LEDs D1 through D10) flash and thus warn that the water has reached the top level.
 
When the water level goes down, the reverse happens and each LED is turned ‘off’ successively. The novel feature of this circuit is that whenever the water level is below the first sensor, all the LEDs are ‘off’ and the quiescent current is very low. Thus, a power ‘on’/‘off’ switch is not so essential. Even when the LED-meter is fully on, the cur-rent drawn from the power supply is not more than 120 mA. A heat-sink may, how-ever, be used for transistor T2, if the tank is expected to remain full most of the time. A power supply unit providing unregulated 6V DC to 15V DC at 300mA current is adequate.
 
Caution. A point to be noted is that water  tends to stick to the narrow space at the sensor-spacer junction and can cause a false reading on the LED-meter. This can be avoided if the spacers are made wider than 10 mm.
Author : M.K. Chandra MouleeswAran - Copyright : EFY
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Monday, November 25, 2013

Hot Water Level Indicator

A simple device to indicate various levels of hot water in a tank, save fuel bills and the economy of the planet with this circuit. SW1 is a normally open press button switch which allows you to view the level of hot water in a hot water tank. When pressed the voltage difference at the junction of the thermistor and preset is compared to the fixed voltage on the op-amps non-inverting input. Depending on the heat of the water in the tank, the thermistors resistance will toggle the op-amp output to swing to almost full voltage supply and light the appropriate LED.

Hot Water Level Indicator Schematic

Hot Water Level Indicator

Construction:
Masking tape was used to stick the bead thermistors to the tank. Wires were soldered and insulated at the thermistors ends. A plastic box was used to house the circuit. Battery life will probably be 4 to 5 years depending on how often you use the push switch, SW1.

Sensor Placement:
Thermistors NTC1-4 should be spread evenly over the height of the tank. I placed NTC1 roughly 4 inches from the top of my tank and the others were spaced evenly across the height of the hot water tank. As hot water rises the lowest sensor indicates the fullest height of hot water and should be about 8 to 10 inches from the bottom of the tank.

Calibration:

With a full tank of hot water adjust P1-4 so that all LEDs are lit. As hot water rises, the sensor at the bottom of the tank will be the maximum level of hot water. "Hot" can be translated as 50C to 80C the presets P1-4 allow adjustment of this range.

Parts:
I have used a quad version of the LM324 but any quad opamp can be used or even four single op-amps.
R2-R5 I used 330ohm resistors, but value is not critical. Lower values give brighter LED output.
NTC1-4 The thermistors maximum resistance must roughly equal the resistance of the fixed resistor and preset. As negative temparature coefficient (NTC) thermistors are used, then their resistance decreases for increases in temperature. I used a thermistor from the Maplin Catalogue. Cold resistance was around 300K, hot resistance 15k. Alternative thermistors may be used with different resistance ranges, but the presets P1 to P4 must also be changed as well.
R7-10 series resistance, only required if your thermistors resistance is several ohms at the hottest temperature.
P1 - P4 Chosen to match the resistance of the thermistor when cold.
R1 & R6. These resistors are equal and bias the op-amp inverting input to half the supply voltage. I used 100k.
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